Farewell Reg-Meister

We said goodbye to Regis yesterday morning. It has been such a blast having him in Tokyo for the past four months or so. It truly won't be the same without him: His artistic eye for detail, his sense of humor (one of the few people in the world who agrees with me about what is funny), and his reaction to my jokes--the perfect barometer by which to measure my skills.

Regis has compiled a video of all his pictures and a lot of his video footage from his stay here in Japan. It is really a great window into Tokyo and Justyna and I are lucky enough to make a few cameo appearances too.

Goodbye Reg-meister!
See you in Lyon!

Christmas in Tokyo

The rosemary Christmas tree is trimmed and the Kagoshima driftwood tree has its lights on that we bought at the 100yen store! Its Christmas in Tokyo! I must say that, for a people who claim to be mostly Buddhist and partly Shintoist, the Japanese seem like they could have invented Christmas. As soon as Dec. 1st hit, there were Christmas songs in every store and lights all over the place. The Japanese word for Christmas light display is "irumineishyon!" and the locals are always flocking to this years best lights. Usually it involves a sub-par tree and a few pokemon dolls with very gimpy lights thrown in, but "irumineishyon!" never fails to enthrall the revelers. On the subway trains, there is even a Christmas tree contest showing various Christmas trees decorated from around Tokyo. It is aptly titled: "I love you! Tree" What can I say, its the most wonderful time of the year and I can't wait to be back in Indy! Only 9 more days!

Tsukijier Said than Done

Waking up at 3:45am is always hard, especially after hanging out with the boys. But any gaijin is capable of doing it if they know that they get to go to Tsukiji fish market: largest fish market in the world, and supplier of sushi to most of central Japan. We went with Mike and Dan two weeks back and we decided to take Regis there this morning, as he is heading back to France in a few weeks.
You could say that Tsukiji is in my blood. My dad was probably the gaijin who visited the fish market most frequently in all of Tokyo during his five years working here. I am sure if he showed up there today all the old-timers would recognize him. I went with Bryce a few times and was not really in to it back in the late 90's, but now that I am an adult, I really can see why he was so excited by it. Acres upon acres of exotic fish, shellfish, crustaceans, and seaweed species you've never seen before...most of it is alive and crawling, squirming, and squirting. Giant tuna being auctioned in giant hangar-like rooms; one section for frozen tuna from the Atlantic, Indian and Arctic Oceans, and the other for fresh tuna caught close to Japan. Most of the tuna are the size of deer and have their tails sliced off so the whole-salers can sample the meat with their picks and figure out what kind of a price they want to offer.
Regis, in his usual magical way, was able to capture the moments we all shared this morning. Brendan and his friend Julie (visiting from Korea) came along and we all had sushi for breakfast when we were done. Dan and Mike will want to watch the video, as we followed basically the same route that we did two weeks back.

ENJOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Tsukiji 4 AM
envoyé par cheribibiz

"Japanese Only"

Japan is, for the most part, the land of opportunities if you happen to be a gaijin. The perks of being a foreigner far outweigh the cons. Where else in the world can a guy who looks like Harry Potter be considered a sex symbol or a guy with very limited acting and social skills make it to the pinnacle of Japanese show business simply because he is not Japanese?!

(Below: Patrick Harlan, an American celebrity here in Japan. He started out as an English teacher and has an entire show devoted to documenting his zany gaijin life!)



The "zeros-to-heroes" story is demonstrated to the casual observer everyday here in Tokyo. Television is full of goofy foreigners who wouldn't even dream of being on the tube back home where their skin color is not a novelty. A comic strip that is popular among expat teachers features a super hero named "Charisma Man" who has no powers of seduction and charm on his "...home planet of Canada."


(click to enlarge)


Rarely do people experience the dark underbelly of gaijin life in Japan. People are so polite and courteous that you don't seem to notice it at all. But every so often, you come across a sign like this:


Regis and I saw this sign when we were in Ikebukuro. Granted, it was in front of a porno/prostitution shop, so any gaijin who wanted to go in here is probably not the type of gaijin I would want to associate with. Nonetheless, in an age when politics in the USA has "transcended race," and discrimination issues seem to be associated exclusively with the third world, finding a sign that bars you from a business because of your race in a developed country like Japan is a bit disturbing.

Apparently these signs are not so uncommon. Scanning articles on the web and in periodicals over the years, many restaurants, bathhouses, adult video stores, prostitution venues and beauty salons in Japan have signs barring gaijin. Rowdy gaijin clientele with different drinking and eating habits most likely precipitated the restaurants to bar foreigners. The xenophobic association of foreigners with STDs on the part of the Japanese is probably the most likely cause of video stores and prostitution houses to hang the signs. Bathhouses are notorious for having the Japanese only rule because the foreign customers (usually military guys from the USA or Russia) show up drunk and do things in the "pure" water that quickly make it impure.

It is easy to dismiss these racist signs as just a part of the quirky "Japanese culture." Many foreigners often say: "Hey, we are guests in their country! Who are we to judge?" But shouldn't we have standards that we hold all countries to? Are human rights and human needs different when you cross an arbitrary border? I don't think so! Japan needs to get rid of these signs if it ever wants to be considered a true modern democracy! I am not saying we should organize a "bath-in" at the local bathhouse that prohibits gaijin from entering, but I am saying that we should be diligent watchdogs for these "Japanese Only" signs and criticize them publicly whenever we get a chance.

SHIBUYA!!!!!!!!!!

"Shibuya" is the name of one of the many downtowns of Tokyo and it is also an exclamation (Shi-boooooo-ya!!!")that was invented by Dan, Mike and I to describe the undescribable sights, sounds and tastes that have been the hallmark of this past week. From the largest fish market in the world to the sulfur-spewing mountains where Japan's shogun warlords once vacationed, we have covered a lot of ground and consumed many an Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo, Yebisu and....of course NOBU KUREEKU!!!

Dan and Mike surprised me with their fearless sampling of raw chicken sashimi, chicken skin with shiso leaf, boiled octopus, salty breakfast fish, cold fish cake, and many more exotic and texturally disconcerting foods. They have also impressed me with their interest in the customs and etiquette of this strange land I currently call home.

Here are some of the highlights from the extremely busy seven days:

Raw chicken gizzard (center) ringed by raw chicken breast.
(click the picture to enlarge and see the freshness of the meat!)


Dan uninhibitedly trying the raw chicken breast


Asakusa Shrine in Tokyo


Out at a Restaurant in Shinjuku


The "Romance Car" observation deck we sat in on our train ride to Hakone


Three samurai ready for a soak in the sulfur spring bath


Our feast at the hotel


Relaxing after our Ryokan feast


Mike, Dan and I became very close during their stay here in Japan.


After a walk, outside our ryokan in gora.


Mike at Hakone Shrine


Sacred Tree at Hakone Shrine (another sacred tree is pictured up at the top of the page)


One of the guardian lions at Hakone Shrine

Return to Kagoshima

No, we haven't joined a cult! We are wearing white because we are bathing in a shinto shrine hot spring!

Justyna and I took advantage of our 4-day weekend and flew down to Kagoshima, where I taught english for 2 years. We climbed volcanoes in Kirishima, stayed on the active volcano island of Sakurajima (see title picture), returned to the village of Hiwaki where my post-adolescent Japanese adventures began five years ago, and went to the beach where I spent most of my afternoons with Nick, Karen, and Liz back when I was a layed-back, semi-employed JET.

Seeing the gorgeous sea and mountains of Kag made me remember why it felt so magical to live there. Hidden valleys, tiny villages cut off from the hustle and bustle of modern Japan, sulfurous gases bursting from volcanic vents, other-wordly crators, gorgeous coves and bays, piping hot onsen where you can spend the afternoon relaxing in the remedial water, and delicious regional food like raw chicken with ginger (torisashi), stewed pork, and Satsuma fish cakes.

Aside from a flat tire (which we had to change and pay for according to Japanese rental ettiquette), a general bloated feeling from all the food, and an excursion to a neighboring village that was tainted by a slight hangover, the trip was absolutely wonderful!

Too much food!


Furusato Onsen @ Night!


Late Night Ramen: A Must in Hiwaki


My Taiko Drumming friends sure know how to wlecome back a former member!


My Old House (center)
No one has lived there since I left three years ago!
My garbage and posters were still visible through the windows....


Kirishima Crater Lake (as seen from the top of Mt. karakuni)

The Day Celio Joined the Band

I have been trying to put a faculty band together for the past few weeks. There are many talented teachers at the school and I think it would be neat to get together and perform at some school functions or at some of the many venues around Tokyo. Last night was our third practice and we got a lot done. Celio (the school's Brazilian soccer coach) brought over his recording equipment and drum machine and we were able to record one of Brad's songs (Brad is a 2nd grade teacher) and also record a take of a song Brad Rachel, Justyna and I sing called "Falling Slowly" from the movie "Once" (I recommend the movie to anyone who likes music and movies). Hopefully, with a little hard work and luck, we will be able to perform many shows in the spring once we get our repoitoire down.

Really getting into it!


The drum machine

Drinkable Signs of Atumn

Japan, the country with the most vending machines per-capita in the world, does something very unique every year when fall arrives. In addition to the official "start wearing long-sleeves" day, and the official "close the window day" (every office has one), Japan has an official day when all the vending machines begin to offer hot drinks instead of just the cold drinks that are offered during the summer and spring. Just like everything else in this country which prizes uniformity above all, the switch from cold aloe ball drink to hot corn soup beverage happens virtually over night! So, when I went to get a coke during my break today, oblivious to the changing leaves and cool bite in the air, I was unaware of the arrival of the fall until I saw the red strip underneasth the bottow row of drinks in the vending machine. Usually blue (signifying "cold"), the switch to a red strip meant that now hot milk tea, canned coffee, barley tea, and corn soup beverage are now available! Fall has officially arrived in Japan!

The Story of Oden

Now that the air has become crisp in the mornings here in Tokyo, I am starting to see the steaming cauldrons of Oden at every konbini (convienience store) I go to. Oden is a very simple stew that Japanese people eat in the fall and winter. It consists of a varied assortment of items that float in a fish broth and stew there for days. The way to eat Oden involved grabbing the floating thingy with chopsticks and dipping in in hot mustard. Oden really refers to the floating things, but there are many many types. Cabbage rolls, fish cakes, sausages, eggs, tofu chunks, fried tofu puffs, konyaku (gelatinized root vegetable), there are literally hundreds of kinds of Oden. My favorite is the cabbage roll one.

So far this year I have made Oden 4 times already. I usually make a fish broth by going to our local fish store (a guy and his elderly parents) who give me bunch of fish heads and scrap pieces for very cheap. I make a broth by cooking those fish parts with onions, soy sauce, mirin (cooking sake), sugar and a dash of sesame oil. After the broth is done, I put in the floaty guys (whichever oden I can get my hands on). Most come pre-made at the supermarket accross the street, but others--like the cabbage rolls and "treasure bags" (tofu pouches stuffed with pork), take some time to make.

Here is my Oden that I made last night!


Most ingredients are available in the States at your local asian food store, especially during this time of year, so I encourage you all to try and make some. Justyna says it reminds her of polish stews, which of course have cabbage rolls that are quite similar. If you would like a tutorial on how to make Oden, check out this amazing online cooking show! Despite what the title may suggest, this is not a show about how to cook dog! The dog is the host of the cooking show!
Check it out!

NEW FOOTAGE OF TRIP TO THE BEACH

See New Footage of the Teachers' Trip to the Beach Below!

My New Gaijin Hero

Being a Gaijin in Japan is a very strange experience. Some days you feel like Leonardo DeCaprio must feel when he walks into the Cannes film festival: popular, sexually objectified, uber-cool. Japanese women want you and Japanese men want to drink with you. Other days you feel like Sammy Davis Jr. must have felt when he entertained down in the Mississippi clubs: unsure if the good-ol'-boys are laughing with you or at you. Children stare at you in a way that is normally reserved for zoo animals or pets.

As exotic members of the fringe, gaijin can get away with many things that normal Japanese can't, but gaijin can be discriminated against and talked down to in subtle ways as well. For example, although I love my dry-cleaning lady to death, she always addresses me as though I am a 12-year-old boy. When I ask her what time I can pick up my cloths, she always says: "Oh my, you can speak Japanese so well, aren't you a clever boy!" This type of patronizing treatment wears on you after a while. After 7 years of attempting to perfect my Japanese, the kind of recognition someone like me really wants is no recognition. Blending in means I have achieved my goal. But Gaijin will always be recognized in one way or another. For me I am content with this arrangement. I can play along and endure the occasional condescension or discrimination if it means I can camp for free, get special treatment at bars/restaurants, summon all the firemen from the entire ward without any repercussions, etc. Nonetheless, like all gaijin, I have some resentment in the back of my mind.

It is because of this latent disgruntlement that gaijin always love it when they hear about one of their kind "sticking it to the man" in Japan. "Did you hear about John's scam where he photo-copied his friend's train pass and used the subway free of charge for a year?! What a concept!" "Hey, did you hear about Mary? She puts all five categories of garbage in the same unofficial bag and just throws it in the neighborhood bin! She never gets caught, its so cool!"...These types of comments are often heard at gaijin gatherings. Entire mythologies are built around gaijin heroes who beat the Japanese system through their own gaijin cunning. I remember a story that was circulating back in Kagoshima when I was teaching down there. Apparently this British English teacher a few years earlier was stopped for speeding (50 kmph over speed limit) and he avoided getting a ticket by telling the officer: "Nihon wo taberu..." which means: "I eat Japan...." I guess the officer thought that, judging by this bizarre statement, the British guy was so bad at Japanese that it wasn't worth the headache of going through the paperwork to write him a ticket! That British teacher, for beating the system in such a charming way, was immortalized as a local hero for years after that within the Kagoshima gaijin community.

...Which brings me to my most recent gaijin hero: "The Naked Briton"
Yesterday, a British tourist stuck it to the man in a very creative way: He swam naked in the moat of the the Japanese Imperial Palace!!! (see article: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/worldnews/article-1071811/Pictured-Naked-Briton-arrested-going-swim-Tokyos-sacred-Imperial-Palace-moat.html )

I have often thought what it would be like to swim in that dark, cold moat, but I never thought I would see a gaijin actually doing it! The authorities reported that they were "checking the mental status" of the Naked Briton, but every gaijin knows that he is probably just a stable, healthy gaijin who wanted to go for a dip. Needless to say, he will no doubt be immortalized as a hero of the gaijin community for years to come. Gaijin need these kinds of heroes to remind them that they are not alone in feeling the urge to throw a wrench into the "efficient system" of Japan, a system that both elevates and belittles us foreigners simultaneously. Way to go "Naked Briton"!

No Reservations

Two weekends ago the new teachers and Regis ventured out into the unknown. We rented the school's van and headed south to the Izu peninsula. We had no reservations at a hotel and no real plan. Our only goal was to find a beach. I had been to the southern part of the the Izu peninsula (Shimoda) as a kid and I remembered how beautiful it was. So this time we headed for the western part of the peninsula where there aren't many roads or train lines, expecting the beaches there to be even more spectacular and untouched.

The day started off rainy as Justyna and I traveled around suburban Tokyo picking up Regis (at the station), Brenden, Brad, Rachel, and Trisha (an elementary teacher who was new last year). By the time we were all loaded up, it was still only 8:30 or so. After a confusing stop at Starbucks during which a caramel frapuccino (grande size) was somehow lost in translation, we finally got on the road. Justyna turned out to be one of the fastest drivers the TOmei expressway has ever seen. I was trying to tune into the presidential debates on my I-phone and I lost track of the road. We missed our exit.

The sky was still overcast when we pulled into McDonald's at around 10:45. We were all a bit peckish and many of us wanted to try the "moon-viewing burger" which is this new, limited-edition burger from McDonalds (September is "moon-viewing" season in Japan). The burger consists of a hamburger paddie with an egg on top of it, cheese, bacon, and special sauce. It kind of tastes like those lazy Sunday evenings when you decide to cook breakfast at night.

After that pitstop we made good time down the peninsula. It was chilly and cold as we ascended the central mountains of the Izu, but when we got to the west side it became warm and sunny. We quickly found a nice cove with a sandy beach and went for a swim. I invented what I call a "Kentuckiana Cooler" (cardboard box lined with two trashbags, filled with ice) and so cold beverages were plentiful as we swam.

We notices that there was an expensive campsite beside the beach so we set up our tents a few meters outside the campsite and it magically became free! Gaijin know these things. It was probably "against the rules" to swim after the close of swimming season and the campfire we created was probably also not kosher, but the rule of thumb here is: Do it and play dumb if the authorities show up (see articles entitled: "Kajiiiiiii!").


Well, the authorities did show up, during the middle of our inebriated rendition of "Hey Jude." Everyone was singing at the top of their' lungs, Brad was on his African drum, and many people were percussing with sticks and bottles. Two bashful police officers suddenly became visible in the firelight. We all played dumb with impressive skill. It was almost as though playing dumb was second nature to us all. No one let on that any of us spoke Japanese, and we peppered them with positive comments about Japan and life as a gaijin--classic strategy. "We love Japan!,".... "We are teachers in Tokyo!" .... "We love Tokyo!".... "Japanese beaches are so nice!," we were working the cops like a squad of veteran gypsies! At the end of our crescendo of English positivity, the police told us that the fire was a "bit bright" (bright fires are apparently a big problem in this part of Japan), they told us to be careful and left (the typical response of the authorities to this kind of play-dumb strategy).

The next day was wonderful. I woke up early and started a fire. The ocean was still misty and everyone on the beach was still asleep. Justyna woke up soon after and we boiled some water for my french press. The coffee that morning was one of the best cups I've had in a long time.

The drive home was an adventure. We took these narrow roads up some of the highest mountains on the peninsula. There were also some interesting engineering marvels to behold. For example, there was a corkscrew-shaped highway connector that took you straight up a sheer cliff! Regis was fascinated by this and it is the only video he has posted of the entire trip!

Loupy Loupla
Uploaded by cheribibiz

NEW FOOTAGE OF THE TRIP BY REGIS!!

TEACHERS
Uploaded by cheribibiz

Sumo Memories

I went to sumo yesterday with Regis. It was so exciting to see the giant men during the intimidation round where they grunt, posture and throw sacred shinto clarifying salt in order to intimidate their opponents.
Then the real battle begins....and ends in a few seconds. The train station was filled with giant pictures of old sumo yokozunas and the surrounding neighborhood sported various restaurants that specialize in "chanko nabe" a rich soup that the sumo wrestlers eat daily in order to maintain their girth. Why aren't these guys being checked for "metabo"?


A Gaijin face?


Yes......


.....and what a good wedgy-giver this gaijin is! Many foreigners are getting good at sumo and are rising through the ranks of sumodom by executing moves just like this:

"Hey guys, be nice!"



Being back at a sumo tournament really brought the memories of fighting the frail 60-year-olds of my village during the numerous sumo tournaments down in Kagoshima when I was teaching english. I bet those geriatric farmers haven't eaten dirt in quite the same way since then! I am planning a trip back to Kagoshima for fall break. Is there a chance it could coincide with the Hiwaki fall sumo tournament?! Could the former Yokozuna of Hiwaki village (a gaijin no less--que the village elders huffing and saying "eeeehhhhh?" in disbelief) come back to town and reclaim his title? We'll see!

Their only crime is being old!

Old!!!!

Guess what happened when I fought this young guy from a different village...
You are right, I lost!

Tokyo Honky Tonkin'

Wow, talk about surreal! This past Saturday I went to a "country saloon" located in the suburbs, just two stops from my train station in Todoroki. They had swinging doors, a juke box and a bar stool. They also had ashtrays with spurs on 'em! The goal of the night was to play a few songs for their open mic night, but I ended up befriending the house band and playing songs with them and other performers! What really got the ball rolling was when I started out the night with "Mamas Don't Let Your Babies Grow Up to be Cowboys" by Willie Nelson. From that moment on, everything ran quite smoothly. The house band specializes in bluegrass and their harmonies and pickin' skills amazed me. They have played together since high school so I guess that's why the are so darn tight! Here's Regis's video

Country Desho
Uploaded by cheribibiz

but you can also check it out on his website: http://rapdp.free.fr/projet204/
It is called "Projet 204" because that is his room number in the gaijin house where he lives. Three years ago, when we lived together, I was 201 or 203 (can't remember) and he was 202, so if you want to check out that blog, you have to look up "Projet 202."

The Yodeling Queen

On Friday the German Embassy put on an Oktoberfest celebration. Though it was raining heavily outside (Typhoon), inside the bountiful tent there was ritual toasting, dancing, sausage-eating, and yodeling. The "Yodeling Queen" even came from Germany and during her last number she came right into the crowd and yodeled in front of us! I was stunned at how flawlessly she was able to yodel despite the throngs of Japanese fans who kept swarming her. Again, with characteristic artistry, Regis captured the moment perfectly!!!

Oktober Fest
Uploaded by cheribibiz

Valley of the Nightingales

My friend Regis (with whom I lived in 2005 when I was working at the Canadian Embassy) is back in town and boy did we have a good reunion experience! He lives in this neighborhood called Uguisudani (Valley of the Nightingales) where there are a lot of love hotels (see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Love_hotel ) and a lot of good little restaurants. Regis is a great film maker and he is constantly documenting everything that happens around him. I was surprised to find that he put together a short film using the footage he took of our reunion night. It was a great little yakitori restaurant with only six seats and the owner asked if I would sing them a karaoke song. The movie really captures the moment. I should get Regis to document my life more often!

KROK
Uploaded by cheribibiz

McMetabo

The new problem here in Japan, aside from "chikan" or "perverts" who harass women on the train system, is "metabo." There are articles every week in the local and international newspapers complaining about how the rate of "metabo" is increasing throughout Japan. (see article: http://news.scotsman.com/world/Metabo-tightens-belts-in-land.4186840.jp) The term "metabo" comes from the English word "metabolism." Japanese doctors measure "metabo" (and I know this because I was tested for it) by putting a special measuring tape around your waist and calculating your waste-to-height ratio. If your food-baby is too corpulent (like mine is) you are deemed "metabo" which I guess means that you are metabolically deficient or are eating more calories than your "metabo" can handle.

"Metabo" is the new buzz word, but the problem of obesity in Japan goes back decades. A few years ago, doctors and journalists noticed something alarming. Okinawa, Japan's southern-most prefecture, had the world's highest rate of people over 100-years-old but its youngsters were the fattest in all of Japan. (see article: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/health/main.jhtml?xml=/health/2006/09/04/wjapan04.xml) The finger was quickly pointed at the US army and naval bases that are all over that island. The bases sport large numbers of American fast food joints that lure local Japanese kids in for a belly bomb and some grease rockets after school and on the weekends. Although I agree that American-style fast food is bad for you, I noticed something at my local McDonald's that caused everything to be illuminated. Japan has an item on its McDonald's menu that the USA does not: the "Mega Maku," a Big Mac with twice the hamburger patties!

Japan's youth has been gorging itself silly with twice the fake meat of a normal Big Mac for....who knows how long. I predict that future nutritionists will look back at the advent of the "Mega Maku" in Japan as the beginning of the end for Japan's once-coveted status as the world's largest producer of healthy centenarians!

Digital Chicken Soup for the Gaijin Soul

Lately I have been a bit homesick so I have taken up the strange habit of using google maps to go to places I miss and using the "street view" feature to have a gander at the surroundings. I am not sure how google gets these panorama pics but it is very impressive and comforting. Here is the picture they have of my parent's house in Carmel. What year was this taken? You can tell based on Dad's famous flower arrangement by the mailbox!
View Larger MapTry clicking the image and moving it around. Pretty cool eh?!

Shinto Thin Air

"only Fuji knows,
how hard breathing has become.
slowed feet crunch pumice...."

--Haiku by: Tori Maku, Early 21st Century, Japan

I was jogging along the Tama River a few days ago when I noticed a mushroom-like shape jutting up out of a mountain chain in the distance. After staring at it for a while, I realized that it was the perfectly conical top of Mount Fuji. It is rare to see Fuji in the summer, as it is so hazy most of the time, so I felt quite lucky to see my favorite mountain peaking out as I ran.

Just a few days earlier I never wanted to see Fuji again. We started climbing at around 8pm on last Friday night. Most normal teachers at 8pm in Tokyo were probably about to relax for a post-school-week cocktail or head off to bed after an exhausting five days. Bucking convention like a malnourished rodeo clown, Tokyo Tori and friends decided to embark on a 12-hour journey that would take us to the top of Japan's tallest mountain, into sub-zero temperatures and low oxygen zones, and back again with no sleep whatsoever!




The climb was exhilarating and, at times, grueling (for me and Brendan...not necessarily for the Sherpa-woman Justyna who was always way ahead of us). We drove up to the 5th station (9 total) and hiked the rest. There were huts along the way that sold hot drinks and beer. We chose beer (still jovial) at the first hut and hot drinks (no longer jovial, very cold) at the second one we stopped at.

The mountain was completely deserted until 2am when all the huts became Japanese clown cars with hundreds of hikers spewing out of them in record time. It was almost as if there were tunnels beneath the huts that held more and more people. There was potential for a WW2 joke about the Japanese and their tendency to spring en mass from hidden tunnels ("banzai!") but the air had become so thin at this point that I had no energy left for creative thinking! Honestly, the lack of air feels like you have a water-soaked cloth over your head and no matter what you do, you just can't seem to get a satisfying breath.



We finally reached the top and passed through the Shinto Tori (sacred gate to mark a beautiful natural spot in the Shinto religion) at around 4:30, which gave us a chance to find a good spot to view the sunrise at 5:15. It was a gorgeous sunrise and we were enthralled to see some form of light after almost 8 hours of climbing through the dark. Because it was -3 or so at the top and the vendors up there do not sell hot soup past the end of August, we stayed for just a short while and then began our descent (see title picture at top). It was a great trip and I will take anyone who's interested back to the top....as long as you pay for the oxygen tank and the donkey.

Food Find #1: Best School Lunch....In The World!

Many of my fellow teachers don't agree with me, but I would argue that our school has one of the best school lunches out there. Various entrees that mix Asian and Western cuisine in ways you could never imagine. My brothers and I (having attended St. Mary's) loved the school lunch and our favorite was the school chef's unique take on lasagna. Delicately baked noodles and meat sauce with crispy cheese ladled over top of piping hot saffron rice. When you visit me in Tokyo, the school cafeteria is a must for anyone wishing to taste heaven on a plate.

Semi no Koe (The Voice of the Cicadas)

"So still . . . into the rocks it pierces, the cicada-shrill"
-Haiku by Basho (late 1600's)

I wish this was the case here in Tokyo, but the cicada situation outside my classroom is much more intense. Sometimes it is so loud I can barely lecture over it!

Kaji!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Justyna and I both live in the same apartment building and--being new teachers--we decided to throw a housewarming party and invite a lot of our teachers and administrators. I was very excited at the opportunity to cook and decided I would make various kinds of yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) on my balcony. I couldn't find a proper BBQ so I bought a grill (just the top part) and lit some coals on fire in a wok. The idea was to put the grill over the wok and use it like a little hibachi (I had seen some Japanese guy do a similar thing on Iron Chef). I went out to my balcony, lit the coals (self-igniting), and let the initial fire burn down as I busied myself inside putting the chicken on the skewers. Ten minutes later, Justyna came up to my place (4th floor) from her's (2nd floor) and said that something was going on outside. I went out to the balcony and was stunned to see a horrified crowd of at least 30 people who had assembled outside my apartment building. The frantic way they were pointing at the sky and shouting hysterically conjured up images of the frenzied crowd in "Godzilla," horrified in the streets of Tokyo, pointing and yelling "GOJIRAAA!!!!" The only difference was that these people were yelling "Kaji!!!!!"


Kaji means many things in Japanese, but the most obvious one is "fire." I looked up at the top of my building and then over at the surrounding apartments and I didn't see any fire. Then I realized that they must be talking about my little wok and the decent amount of smoke the coals were creating. I quickly held up the wok and told the crowd not to worry. "No fire here," I said in Japanese. "Just burnt a hamburger..." I had to lie, as barbecuing is frowned upon in Japan because the smoke can bother people in the apartments above you. I live on the top floor, so I never thought this would be an issue. Nonetheless, I thought I should project the image of a helpless victim of cooking circumstance rather than that of a blatant illegal-griller.


The crowd continued to grow and, despite my physically showing them the extent of their "fire" by hold my wok aloft for them to see from four floors up, they continued to shout "Kaji!!!!!!" in almost a mindless chant. Seeing that this situation (people yelling "fire!" in a crowded metropolis) was a bad one, I doused the wok with a cup of water and ran downstairs to have a face-to-face with the frenzied fire-fearers. That proved to be equally pointless. By the time I got down to the main floor, the water I had poured on the flames had created a bellow of steam which, from far a way (and if you happened to be a frenzied old lady in my neighborhood) looked like even more smoke. So as I am trying to make eye contact with these neighbors, they are looking above me and continuing their cries: "KAJIIIIIII!" Straight out of "Godzilla." At that point I started to see the futility in using reason with these folks so I said good night and went up to my apartment to put the rest of the coals out.


About ten minutes after I extinguished all the coals is when I started to hear the sirens. I thought it must have something to do with the flooding that has been going on in our area (lots of rain lately). The sirens got louder and louder and seemed to be coming from every direction. It didn't occur to me that they might all be coming to my house until a neighbor came over and told me that, because she didn't know me and had not been formally introduced, she decided to call three different local fire stations and two police departments when she heard there was a fire on my balcony. I told her that next time she should just ring my doorbell and I was glad she could now call them back and tell them it was a false-alarm. Unfortunately, she informed me, in Japan once an emergency number is called, an "all clear" is not possible until the situation is "totally analyzed."


The first fire department arrived in full gear, masks, wielding axes, at exactly the same time as the head of the social-studies department (my boss), her husband, and the middle school principle and his wife. They were pushed aside by the second wave of firemen as I tried to explain what was happening. Sometime between the second and third waves of firemen, the police showed up. I am not sure how I was keen enough to think it through, but by that point I had gotten rid of all the evidence of a BBQ, including the coals and lighter fluid. In Japan, if the false-alarm is deemed your fault, you often have to pay for the gas money and other "I'm Sorry" money so I wanted to be sure and avoid that. I stashed the wet coals in my suitcase under my pinstriped suit. I was sticking with my hamburger story. After an hour of interrogation about the hamburger (size, type of meat, sauce...honestly they asked me) the firemen and the cops finally left.....only to be replaced by a troop of detectives. These guys had a huge spotlight, a video camera and a bag for what I assumed was evidence. Oh and the owner of my building and the realtor who rented my apartment to me showed up at this point as well.


Meanwhile, two floors down, my colleagues and friends were having a hell of a laugh at my expense I'm sure. After a fire-safety lesson from the fire chief of my neighborhood (he came last of all and checked my nose hairs to see if I had suffered from smoke-inhalation.....don't ask), a formal apology from me to my landlord, and a rearrangement of my kitchen to make it "less flammable," (1.5 hours total) I was able to join the party downstairs and have some fun. I am still waiting for my principal to call me up and ask me about the whole fiasco, as the detectives and the fire units demanded my employer's number so that they could verify my information. Needless to say I won't be barbecuing again in this country any time soon. That is... not unless I want to hear the shrill cries of the obasans (old ladies) screaming "KAJIIIIII!" again!
The first arrival...

First wave of firemen

Secret cameras are hard to operate....

The "Inspectors..."

Two floors down...

My Classes

My classes have been wonderful so far. We are learning about the Renaissance this week. I have already been surprised by both the diversity of the students (30 countries or so represented) and their extreme enthusiasm. I mean, just look at how excited they get during my simple renaissance lesson!

I am used to teaching jaded 12th-graders so it is a breath of fresh air to have 9th-grade students who are excited about life. It is also cool to have students who are as unashamed of being a dork as I am! I tell them stories about playing my nerdy roll-playing games when I was a student at St. Mary's and they love it. I love my job!

Azabu Juban Matsuri

Had a great time at the Azabu Juban Summer Festival (Matsuri). There were so many delicious things to eat that you can only find at festivals, so I went a bit overboard. There were also many activities as well. It is like Japan's version of the state fair, where elephant ears and ring toss only come once a year....except the food is better and the games aren't rigged. Aparently, the theme this year was oni (Japanese devil). This year it was raining, but that didn't stop the vendors or the revellers....
You may want to cover your keyboard with saliva-proof plastic before viewing these octopus ball morsels:
Salty Little Devils!

Best part of a festival is always the drumming

For the trip home, I took the route that my bros. and I used to take to school.
You no longer need to use paper tickets (although they are available). There is a new pass that you refill with money. You can buy drinks with it too!