It was definitely the right decision to stay at Jinhu last night rather than continue on to Kyumi. Fully rested, having enjoyed a more relaxing birthday feast with even a couple of cans of beer, we were both really rested and excited to face our last day down the valley. Having breakfasted on home-made bread and scrambled eggs, we set off down the steep stone staircase towards the bottom of the Khola valley. As predicted, I did find this incredibly taxing - even though I had invested in some knee supports back in Japan, my knees were killing me by the time we were half way down the 500m decent. We did meet en route our little Japanese friend, who has been in many ways a constant companion and a reminder of 'home'. Walking down the valley towards Kyumi (1300m) and then beyond, reminded us very much of the incredible journey we had both been on and how much we had actually achieved. On average we walked between 30km and 10km per day (depending on the climb), averaging 7hours trekking per day, climbed a vertical distance of over 3000m. the last two hours in the intense midday heat towards Birthanti and Naya Pul, was probably the most tiring as you finally allow your body to think of rest and suddenly the 13kg backpacks we had been carrying actually felt alien and heavy. With a final check-in at TIPS (trekkers safety management that we had actually got down the mountain) and a fond farewell to our walking sticks, we caught a bus back to Pokhara. The scary-ass bus ride from hell that is! the 'highway' (I use this term loosely) to Pokhara is full of ridges, pot-holes, and mad drivers (two buses going full speed trying to out-race one another, as a taxi, a goat and a motorbike are also trying to maneuver the same route). We were buried under our backpacks, in sticky seats, with a young girl vomiting in front of us out of the window (at least not me this time) which had to be kept closed in case the vomit hit us. We were both tired and agreed the course of action upon getting to the bus stop, get a cab to our hotel, shower, cold beer and then food (having not eaten since 6am and it was now close to 2pm). T almost got into a fight with some local dude who was very rude on the bus, and both of us got off the us at Pokhara as quickly as possible to escape any possible consequences (and get some fresh air). When to my intense anger and disappointment, instead of heading to the taxi ramp, T put on his backpack and starts walking. Now, we were dropped off in a part of Pokhara I did not recognize, but I knew it was far enough, and there was no way I wanted to walk further. So gently I showed my anger at not taking a cab. (T's response) - Well, we could either walk, or take an EXPENSIVE CAB RIDE HOME (emphasis on the expensive). The palpable venom rose up in me and although it was the last thing I wanted to do, I was determined to prove to the suddenly very frugal Triston that I could deal with another 5km walk, but I would make him sorry. so the entire route down to our hotel from upside Pokhara, was spent with a fuming Justyna walking at least 5m away from an equally fuming Triston. By the time we got to our hotel, and having dreamt of a clean shower, you can imagine my intense devastation when upon reaching our room, and walking into the bathroom, I notice it has recently been used by someone and in the corner of the shower is a HUGE BALL OF SOMEONES VERY BLACK HAIR! those of you who know my hair phobia, will not be surprised that I promptly marched down to the reception, and got the young Nepali boy who gave us our key to march up with me, show him the evidence and leave him to deal with it as I went to give our laundry to the washroom (4.5kg of stinky, ripe, trek gear!) Back in a now clean room and bathroom, T and I finally burst out laughing at our moments of anger, and after a few refreshments went to have a delicious meal in a local restaurant. There is so much we will take away from this awesome adventure, not just the sights, sounds and smells of the mountains; the laughter, tears and emotions from the top at ABC, frustrations and fear and a sense of achievement. Most of all I think we are just really pleased to be alive, well and able to do this together, and hopefully will one day share this route with our children.
(below) J walking with fellow travellers
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