Waking up at 3:45am is always hard, especially after hanging out with the boys. But any gaijin is capable of doing it if they know that they get to go to Tsukiji fish market: largest fish market in the world, and supplier of sushi to most of central Japan. We went with Mike and Dan two weeks back and we decided to take Regis there this morning, as he is heading back to France in a few weeks.
You could say that Tsukiji is in my blood. My dad was probably the gaijin who visited the fish market most frequently in all of Tokyo during his five years working here. I am sure if he showed up there today all the old-timers would recognize him. I went with Bryce a few times and was not really in to it back in the late 90's, but now that I am an adult, I really can see why he was so excited by it. Acres upon acres of exotic fish, shellfish, crustaceans, and seaweed species you've never seen before...most of it is alive and crawling, squirming, and squirting. Giant tuna being auctioned in giant hangar-like rooms; one section for frozen tuna from the Atlantic, Indian and Arctic Oceans, and the other for fresh tuna caught close to Japan. Most of the tuna are the size of deer and have their tails sliced off so the whole-salers can sample the meat with their picks and figure out what kind of a price they want to offer.
Regis, in his usual magical way, was able to capture the moments we all shared this morning. Brendan and his friend Julie (visiting from Korea) came along and we all had sushi for breakfast when we were done. Dan and Mike will want to watch the video, as we followed basically the same route that we did two weeks back.
ENJOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Friday, November 28, 2008
Sunday, November 23, 2008
"Japanese Only"
Japan is, for the most part, the land of opportunities if you happen to be a gaijin. The perks of being a foreigner far outweigh the cons. Where else in the world can a guy who looks like Harry Potter be considered a sex symbol or a guy with very limited acting and social skills make it to the pinnacle of Japanese show business simply because he is not Japanese?!
(Below: Patrick Harlan, an American celebrity here in Japan. He started out as an English teacher and has an entire show devoted to documenting his zany gaijin life!)
The "zeros-to-heroes" story is demonstrated to the casual observer everyday here in Tokyo. Television is full of goofy foreigners who wouldn't even dream of being on the tube back home where their skin color is not a novelty. A comic strip that is popular among expat teachers features a super hero named "Charisma Man" who has no powers of seduction and charm on his "...home planet of Canada."
(click to enlarge)
Rarely do people experience the dark underbelly of gaijin life in Japan. People are so polite and courteous that you don't seem to notice it at all. But every so often, you come across a sign like this:
Regis and I saw this sign when we were in Ikebukuro. Granted, it was in front of a porno/prostitution shop, so any gaijin who wanted to go in here is probably not the type of gaijin I would want to associate with. Nonetheless, in an age when politics in the USA has "transcended race," and discrimination issues seem to be associated exclusively with the third world, finding a sign that bars you from a business because of your race in a developed country like Japan is a bit disturbing.
Apparently these signs are not so uncommon. Scanning articles on the web and in periodicals over the years, many restaurants, bathhouses, adult video stores, prostitution venues and beauty salons in Japan have signs barring gaijin. Rowdy gaijin clientele with different drinking and eating habits most likely precipitated the restaurants to bar foreigners. The xenophobic association of foreigners with STDs on the part of the Japanese is probably the most likely cause of video stores and prostitution houses to hang the signs. Bathhouses are notorious for having the Japanese only rule because the foreign customers (usually military guys from the USA or Russia) show up drunk and do things in the "pure" water that quickly make it impure.
It is easy to dismiss these racist signs as just a part of the quirky "Japanese culture." Many foreigners often say: "Hey, we are guests in their country! Who are we to judge?" But shouldn't we have standards that we hold all countries to? Are human rights and human needs different when you cross an arbitrary border? I don't think so! Japan needs to get rid of these signs if it ever wants to be considered a true modern democracy! I am not saying we should organize a "bath-in" at the local bathhouse that prohibits gaijin from entering, but I am saying that we should be diligent watchdogs for these "Japanese Only" signs and criticize them publicly whenever we get a chance.
(Below: Patrick Harlan, an American celebrity here in Japan. He started out as an English teacher and has an entire show devoted to documenting his zany gaijin life!)
The "zeros-to-heroes" story is demonstrated to the casual observer everyday here in Tokyo. Television is full of goofy foreigners who wouldn't even dream of being on the tube back home where their skin color is not a novelty. A comic strip that is popular among expat teachers features a super hero named "Charisma Man" who has no powers of seduction and charm on his "...home planet of Canada."
(click to enlarge)
Rarely do people experience the dark underbelly of gaijin life in Japan. People are so polite and courteous that you don't seem to notice it at all. But every so often, you come across a sign like this:
Regis and I saw this sign when we were in Ikebukuro. Granted, it was in front of a porno/prostitution shop, so any gaijin who wanted to go in here is probably not the type of gaijin I would want to associate with. Nonetheless, in an age when politics in the USA has "transcended race," and discrimination issues seem to be associated exclusively with the third world, finding a sign that bars you from a business because of your race in a developed country like Japan is a bit disturbing.
Apparently these signs are not so uncommon. Scanning articles on the web and in periodicals over the years, many restaurants, bathhouses, adult video stores, prostitution venues and beauty salons in Japan have signs barring gaijin. Rowdy gaijin clientele with different drinking and eating habits most likely precipitated the restaurants to bar foreigners. The xenophobic association of foreigners with STDs on the part of the Japanese is probably the most likely cause of video stores and prostitution houses to hang the signs. Bathhouses are notorious for having the Japanese only rule because the foreign customers (usually military guys from the USA or Russia) show up drunk and do things in the "pure" water that quickly make it impure.
It is easy to dismiss these racist signs as just a part of the quirky "Japanese culture." Many foreigners often say: "Hey, we are guests in their country! Who are we to judge?" But shouldn't we have standards that we hold all countries to? Are human rights and human needs different when you cross an arbitrary border? I don't think so! Japan needs to get rid of these signs if it ever wants to be considered a true modern democracy! I am not saying we should organize a "bath-in" at the local bathhouse that prohibits gaijin from entering, but I am saying that we should be diligent watchdogs for these "Japanese Only" signs and criticize them publicly whenever we get a chance.
Sunday, November 16, 2008
SHIBUYA!!!!!!!!!!
"Shibuya" is the name of one of the many downtowns of Tokyo and it is also an exclamation (Shi-boooooo-ya!!!")that was invented by Dan, Mike and I to describe the undescribable sights, sounds and tastes that have been the hallmark of this past week. From the largest fish market in the world to the sulfur-spewing mountains where Japan's shogun warlords once vacationed, we have covered a lot of ground and consumed many an Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo, Yebisu and....of course NOBU KUREEKU!!!
Dan and Mike surprised me with their fearless sampling of raw chicken sashimi, chicken skin with shiso leaf, boiled octopus, salty breakfast fish, cold fish cake, and many more exotic and texturally disconcerting foods. They have also impressed me with their interest in the customs and etiquette of this strange land I currently call home.
Here are some of the highlights from the extremely busy seven days:
Raw chicken gizzard (center) ringed by raw chicken breast.
(click the picture to enlarge and see the freshness of the meat!)
Dan uninhibitedly trying the raw chicken breast
Asakusa Shrine in Tokyo
Out at a Restaurant in Shinjuku
The "Romance Car" observation deck we sat in on our train ride to Hakone
Three samurai ready for a soak in the sulfur spring bath
Our feast at the hotel
Relaxing after our Ryokan feast
Mike, Dan and I became very close during their stay here in Japan.
After a walk, outside our ryokan in gora.
Mike at Hakone Shrine
Sacred Tree at Hakone Shrine (another sacred tree is pictured up at the top of the page)
One of the guardian lions at Hakone Shrine
Dan and Mike surprised me with their fearless sampling of raw chicken sashimi, chicken skin with shiso leaf, boiled octopus, salty breakfast fish, cold fish cake, and many more exotic and texturally disconcerting foods. They have also impressed me with their interest in the customs and etiquette of this strange land I currently call home.
Here are some of the highlights from the extremely busy seven days:
Raw chicken gizzard (center) ringed by raw chicken breast.
(click the picture to enlarge and see the freshness of the meat!)
Dan uninhibitedly trying the raw chicken breast
Asakusa Shrine in Tokyo
Out at a Restaurant in Shinjuku
The "Romance Car" observation deck we sat in on our train ride to Hakone
Three samurai ready for a soak in the sulfur spring bath
Our feast at the hotel
Relaxing after our Ryokan feast
Mike, Dan and I became very close during their stay here in Japan.
After a walk, outside our ryokan in gora.
Mike at Hakone Shrine
Sacred Tree at Hakone Shrine (another sacred tree is pictured up at the top of the page)
One of the guardian lions at Hakone Shrine
Friday, November 7, 2008
Return to Kagoshima
No, we haven't joined a cult! We are wearing white because we are bathing in a shinto shrine hot spring!
Justyna and I took advantage of our 4-day weekend and flew down to Kagoshima, where I taught english for 2 years. We climbed volcanoes in Kirishima, stayed on the active volcano island of Sakurajima (see title picture), returned to the village of Hiwaki where my post-adolescent Japanese adventures began five years ago, and went to the beach where I spent most of my afternoons with Nick, Karen, and Liz back when I was a layed-back, semi-employed JET.
Seeing the gorgeous sea and mountains of Kag made me remember why it felt so magical to live there. Hidden valleys, tiny villages cut off from the hustle and bustle of modern Japan, sulfurous gases bursting from volcanic vents, other-wordly crators, gorgeous coves and bays, piping hot onsen where you can spend the afternoon relaxing in the remedial water, and delicious regional food like raw chicken with ginger (torisashi), stewed pork, and Satsuma fish cakes.
Aside from a flat tire (which we had to change and pay for according to Japanese rental ettiquette), a general bloated feeling from all the food, and an excursion to a neighboring village that was tainted by a slight hangover, the trip was absolutely wonderful!
Too much food!
Furusato Onsen @ Night!
Late Night Ramen: A Must in Hiwaki
My Taiko Drumming friends sure know how to wlecome back a former member!
My Old House (center)
No one has lived there since I left three years ago!
My garbage and posters were still visible through the windows....
Kirishima Crater Lake (as seen from the top of Mt. karakuni)
Justyna and I took advantage of our 4-day weekend and flew down to Kagoshima, where I taught english for 2 years. We climbed volcanoes in Kirishima, stayed on the active volcano island of Sakurajima (see title picture), returned to the village of Hiwaki where my post-adolescent Japanese adventures began five years ago, and went to the beach where I spent most of my afternoons with Nick, Karen, and Liz back when I was a layed-back, semi-employed JET.
Seeing the gorgeous sea and mountains of Kag made me remember why it felt so magical to live there. Hidden valleys, tiny villages cut off from the hustle and bustle of modern Japan, sulfurous gases bursting from volcanic vents, other-wordly crators, gorgeous coves and bays, piping hot onsen where you can spend the afternoon relaxing in the remedial water, and delicious regional food like raw chicken with ginger (torisashi), stewed pork, and Satsuma fish cakes.
Aside from a flat tire (which we had to change and pay for according to Japanese rental ettiquette), a general bloated feeling from all the food, and an excursion to a neighboring village that was tainted by a slight hangover, the trip was absolutely wonderful!
Too much food!
Furusato Onsen @ Night!
Late Night Ramen: A Must in Hiwaki
My Taiko Drumming friends sure know how to wlecome back a former member!
My Old House (center)
No one has lived there since I left three years ago!
My garbage and posters were still visible through the windows....
Kirishima Crater Lake (as seen from the top of Mt. karakuni)
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