Sunday, November 16, 2008

SHIBUYA!!!!!!!!!!

"Shibuya" is the name of one of the many downtowns of Tokyo and it is also an exclamation (Shi-boooooo-ya!!!")that was invented by Dan, Mike and I to describe the undescribable sights, sounds and tastes that have been the hallmark of this past week. From the largest fish market in the world to the sulfur-spewing mountains where Japan's shogun warlords once vacationed, we have covered a lot of ground and consumed many an Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo, Yebisu and....of course NOBU KUREEKU!!!

Dan and Mike surprised me with their fearless sampling of raw chicken sashimi, chicken skin with shiso leaf, boiled octopus, salty breakfast fish, cold fish cake, and many more exotic and texturally disconcerting foods. They have also impressed me with their interest in the customs and etiquette of this strange land I currently call home.

Here are some of the highlights from the extremely busy seven days:

Raw chicken gizzard (center) ringed by raw chicken breast.
(click the picture to enlarge and see the freshness of the meat!)


Dan uninhibitedly trying the raw chicken breast


Asakusa Shrine in Tokyo


Out at a Restaurant in Shinjuku


The "Romance Car" observation deck we sat in on our train ride to Hakone


Three samurai ready for a soak in the sulfur spring bath


Our feast at the hotel


Relaxing after our Ryokan feast


Mike, Dan and I became very close during their stay here in Japan.


After a walk, outside our ryokan in gora.


Mike at Hakone Shrine


Sacred Tree at Hakone Shrine (another sacred tree is pictured up at the top of the page)


One of the guardian lions at Hakone Shrine

Friday, November 7, 2008

Return to Kagoshima

No, we haven't joined a cult! We are wearing white because we are bathing in a shinto shrine hot spring!

Justyna and I took advantage of our 4-day weekend and flew down to Kagoshima, where I taught english for 2 years. We climbed volcanoes in Kirishima, stayed on the active volcano island of Sakurajima (see title picture), returned to the village of Hiwaki where my post-adolescent Japanese adventures began five years ago, and went to the beach where I spent most of my afternoons with Nick, Karen, and Liz back when I was a layed-back, semi-employed JET.

Seeing the gorgeous sea and mountains of Kag made me remember why it felt so magical to live there. Hidden valleys, tiny villages cut off from the hustle and bustle of modern Japan, sulfurous gases bursting from volcanic vents, other-wordly crators, gorgeous coves and bays, piping hot onsen where you can spend the afternoon relaxing in the remedial water, and delicious regional food like raw chicken with ginger (torisashi), stewed pork, and Satsuma fish cakes.

Aside from a flat tire (which we had to change and pay for according to Japanese rental ettiquette), a general bloated feeling from all the food, and an excursion to a neighboring village that was tainted by a slight hangover, the trip was absolutely wonderful!

Too much food!


Furusato Onsen @ Night!


Late Night Ramen: A Must in Hiwaki


My Taiko Drumming friends sure know how to wlecome back a former member!


My Old House (center)
No one has lived there since I left three years ago!
My garbage and posters were still visible through the windows....


Kirishima Crater Lake (as seen from the top of Mt. karakuni)

Thursday, October 23, 2008

The Day Celio Joined the Band

I have been trying to put a faculty band together for the past few weeks. There are many talented teachers at the school and I think it would be neat to get together and perform at some school functions or at some of the many venues around Tokyo. Last night was our third practice and we got a lot done. Celio (the school's Brazilian soccer coach) brought over his recording equipment and drum machine and we were able to record one of Brad's songs (Brad is a 2nd grade teacher) and also record a take of a song Brad Rachel, Justyna and I sing called "Falling Slowly" from the movie "Once" (I recommend the movie to anyone who likes music and movies). Hopefully, with a little hard work and luck, we will be able to perform many shows in the spring once we get our repoitoire down.

Really getting into it!


The drum machine

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Drinkable Signs of Atumn


Japan, the country with the most vending machines per-capita in the world, does something very unique every year when fall arrives. In addition to the official "start wearing long-sleeves" day, and the official "close the window day" (every office has one), Japan has an official day when all the vending machines begin to offer hot drinks instead of just the cold drinks that are offered during the summer and spring. Just like everything else in this country which prizes uniformity above all, the switch from cold aloe ball drink to hot corn soup beverage happens virtually over night! So, when I went to get a coke during my break today, oblivious to the changing leaves and cool bite in the air, I was unaware of the arrival of the fall until I saw the red strip underneasth the bottow row of drinks in the vending machine. Usually blue (signifying "cold"), the switch to a red strip meant that now hot milk tea, canned coffee, barley tea, and corn soup beverage are now available! Fall has officially arrived in Japan!

Sunday, October 19, 2008

The Story of Oden

Now that the air has become crisp in the mornings here in Tokyo, I am starting to see the steaming cauldrons of Oden at every konbini (convienience store) I go to. Oden is a very simple stew that Japanese people eat in the fall and winter. It consists of a varied assortment of items that float in a fish broth and stew there for days. The way to eat Oden involved grabbing the floating thingy with chopsticks and dipping in in hot mustard. Oden really refers to the floating things, but there are many many types. Cabbage rolls, fish cakes, sausages, eggs, tofu chunks, fried tofu puffs, konyaku (gelatinized root vegetable), there are literally hundreds of kinds of Oden. My favorite is the cabbage roll one.

So far this year I have made Oden 4 times already. I usually make a fish broth by going to our local fish store (a guy and his elderly parents) who give me bunch of fish heads and scrap pieces for very cheap. I make a broth by cooking those fish parts with onions, soy sauce, mirin (cooking sake), sugar and a dash of sesame oil. After the broth is done, I put in the floaty guys (whichever oden I can get my hands on). Most come pre-made at the supermarket accross the street, but others--like the cabbage rolls and "treasure bags" (tofu pouches stuffed with pork), take some time to make.

Here is my Oden that I made last night!


Most ingredients are available in the States at your local asian food store, especially during this time of year, so I encourage you all to try and make some. Justyna says it reminds her of polish stews, which of course have cabbage rolls that are quite similar. If you would like a tutorial on how to make Oden, check out this amazing online cooking show! Despite what the title may suggest, this is not a show about how to cook dog! The dog is the host of the cooking show!
Check it out!

Wednesday, October 8, 2008

NEW FOOTAGE OF TRIP TO THE BEACH

See New Footage of the Teachers' Trip to the Beach Below!

Tuesday, October 7, 2008

My New Gaijin Hero

Being a Gaijin in Japan is a very strange experience. Some days you feel like Leonardo DeCaprio must feel when he walks into the Cannes film festival: popular, sexually objectified, uber-cool. Japanese women want you and Japanese men want to drink with you. Other days you feel like Sammy Davis Jr. must have felt when he entertained down in the Mississippi clubs: unsure if the good-ol'-boys are laughing with you or at you. Children stare at you in a way that is normally reserved for zoo animals or pets.

As exotic members of the fringe, gaijin can get away with many things that normal Japanese can't, but gaijin can be discriminated against and talked down to in subtle ways as well. For example, although I love my dry-cleaning lady to death, she always addresses me as though I am a 12-year-old boy. When I ask her what time I can pick up my cloths, she always says: "Oh my, you can speak Japanese so well, aren't you a clever boy!" This type of patronizing treatment wears on you after a while. After 7 years of attempting to perfect my Japanese, the kind of recognition someone like me really wants is no recognition. Blending in means I have achieved my goal. But Gaijin will always be recognized in one way or another. For me I am content with this arrangement. I can play along and endure the occasional condescension or discrimination if it means I can camp for free, get special treatment at bars/restaurants, summon all the firemen from the entire ward without any repercussions, etc. Nonetheless, like all gaijin, I have some resentment in the back of my mind.

It is because of this latent disgruntlement that gaijin always love it when they hear about one of their kind "sticking it to the man" in Japan. "Did you hear about John's scam where he photo-copied his friend's train pass and used the subway free of charge for a year?! What a concept!" "Hey, did you hear about Mary? She puts all five categories of garbage in the same unofficial bag and just throws it in the neighborhood bin! She never gets caught, its so cool!"...These types of comments are often heard at gaijin gatherings. Entire mythologies are built around gaijin heroes who beat the Japanese system through their own gaijin cunning. I remember a story that was circulating back in Kagoshima when I was teaching down there. Apparently this British English teacher a few years earlier was stopped for speeding (50 kmph over speed limit) and he avoided getting a ticket by telling the officer: "Nihon wo taberu..." which means: "I eat Japan...." I guess the officer thought that, judging by this bizarre statement, the British guy was so bad at Japanese that it wasn't worth the headache of going through the paperwork to write him a ticket! That British teacher, for beating the system in such a charming way, was immortalized as a local hero for years after that within the Kagoshima gaijin community.

...Which brings me to my most recent gaijin hero: "The Naked Briton"
Yesterday, a British tourist stuck it to the man in a very creative way: He swam naked in the moat of the the Japanese Imperial Palace!!! (see article: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/worldnews/article-1071811/Pictured-Naked-Briton-arrested-going-swim-Tokyos-sacred-Imperial-Palace-moat.html )

I have often thought what it would be like to swim in that dark, cold moat, but I never thought I would see a gaijin actually doing it! The authorities reported that they were "checking the mental status" of the Naked Briton, but every gaijin knows that he is probably just a stable, healthy gaijin who wanted to go for a dip. Needless to say, he will no doubt be immortalized as a hero of the gaijin community for years to come. Gaijin need these kinds of heroes to remind them that they are not alone in feeling the urge to throw a wrench into the "efficient system" of Japan, a system that both elevates and belittles us foreigners simultaneously. Way to go "Naked Briton"!