Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Shinto Thin Air

"only Fuji knows,
how hard breathing has become.
slowed feet crunch pumice...."

--Haiku by: Tori Maku, Early 21st Century, Japan

I was jogging along the Tama River a few days ago when I noticed a mushroom-like shape jutting up out of a mountain chain in the distance. After staring at it for a while, I realized that it was the perfectly conical top of Mount Fuji. It is rare to see Fuji in the summer, as it is so hazy most of the time, so I felt quite lucky to see my favorite mountain peaking out as I ran.

Just a few days earlier I never wanted to see Fuji again. We started climbing at around 8pm on last Friday night. Most normal teachers at 8pm in Tokyo were probably about to relax for a post-school-week cocktail or head off to bed after an exhausting five days. Bucking convention like a malnourished rodeo clown, Tokyo Tori and friends decided to embark on a 12-hour journey that would take us to the top of Japan's tallest mountain, into sub-zero temperatures and low oxygen zones, and back again with no sleep whatsoever!




The climb was exhilarating and, at times, grueling (for me and Brendan...not necessarily for the Sherpa-woman Justyna who was always way ahead of us). We drove up to the 5th station (9 total) and hiked the rest. There were huts along the way that sold hot drinks and beer. We chose beer (still jovial) at the first hut and hot drinks (no longer jovial, very cold) at the second one we stopped at.

The mountain was completely deserted until 2am when all the huts became Japanese clown cars with hundreds of hikers spewing out of them in record time. It was almost as if there were tunnels beneath the huts that held more and more people. There was potential for a WW2 joke about the Japanese and their tendency to spring en mass from hidden tunnels ("banzai!") but the air had become so thin at this point that I had no energy left for creative thinking! Honestly, the lack of air feels like you have a water-soaked cloth over your head and no matter what you do, you just can't seem to get a satisfying breath.



We finally reached the top and passed through the Shinto Tori (sacred gate to mark a beautiful natural spot in the Shinto religion) at around 4:30, which gave us a chance to find a good spot to view the sunrise at 5:15. It was a gorgeous sunrise and we were enthralled to see some form of light after almost 8 hours of climbing through the dark. Because it was -3 or so at the top and the vendors up there do not sell hot soup past the end of August, we stayed for just a short while and then began our descent (see title picture at top). It was a great trip and I will take anyone who's interested back to the top....as long as you pay for the oxygen tank and the donkey.



Monday, September 8, 2008

Food Find #1: Best School Lunch....In The World!

Many of my fellow teachers don't agree with me, but I would argue that our school has one of the best school lunches out there. Various entrees that mix Asian and Western cuisine in ways you could never imagine. My brothers and I (having attended St. Mary's) loved the school lunch and our favorite was the school chef's unique take on lasagna. Delicately baked noodles and meat sauce with crispy cheese ladled over top of piping hot saffron rice. When you visit me in Tokyo, the school cafeteria is a must for anyone wishing to taste heaven on a plate.

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Semi no Koe (The Voice of the Cicadas)

"So still . . . into the rocks it pierces, the cicada-shrill"
-Haiku by Basho (late 1600's)

I wish this was the case here in Tokyo, but the cicada situation outside my classroom is much more intense. Sometimes it is so loud I can barely lecture over it!

Sunday, August 31, 2008

Kaji!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Justyna and I both live in the same apartment building and--being new teachers--we decided to throw a housewarming party and invite a lot of our teachers and administrators. I was very excited at the opportunity to cook and decided I would make various kinds of yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) on my balcony. I couldn't find a proper BBQ so I bought a grill (just the top part) and lit some coals on fire in a wok. The idea was to put the grill over the wok and use it like a little hibachi (I had seen some Japanese guy do a similar thing on Iron Chef). I went out to my balcony, lit the coals (self-igniting), and let the initial fire burn down as I busied myself inside putting the chicken on the skewers. Ten minutes later, Justyna came up to my place (4th floor) from her's (2nd floor) and said that something was going on outside. I went out to the balcony and was stunned to see a horrified crowd of at least 30 people who had assembled outside my apartment building. The frantic way they were pointing at the sky and shouting hysterically conjured up images of the frenzied crowd in "Godzilla," horrified in the streets of Tokyo, pointing and yelling "GOJIRAAA!!!!" The only difference was that these people were yelling "Kaji!!!!!"


Kaji means many things in Japanese, but the most obvious one is "fire." I looked up at the top of my building and then over at the surrounding apartments and I didn't see any fire. Then I realized that they must be talking about my little wok and the decent amount of smoke the coals were creating. I quickly held up the wok and told the crowd not to worry. "No fire here," I said in Japanese. "Just burnt a hamburger..." I had to lie, as barbecuing is frowned upon in Japan because the smoke can bother people in the apartments above you. I live on the top floor, so I never thought this would be an issue. Nonetheless, I thought I should project the image of a helpless victim of cooking circumstance rather than that of a blatant illegal-griller.


The crowd continued to grow and, despite my physically showing them the extent of their "fire" by hold my wok aloft for them to see from four floors up, they continued to shout "Kaji!!!!!!" in almost a mindless chant. Seeing that this situation (people yelling "fire!" in a crowded metropolis) was a bad one, I doused the wok with a cup of water and ran downstairs to have a face-to-face with the frenzied fire-fearers. That proved to be equally pointless. By the time I got down to the main floor, the water I had poured on the flames had created a bellow of steam which, from far a way (and if you happened to be a frenzied old lady in my neighborhood) looked like even more smoke. So as I am trying to make eye contact with these neighbors, they are looking above me and continuing their cries: "KAJIIIIIII!" Straight out of "Godzilla." At that point I started to see the futility in using reason with these folks so I said good night and went up to my apartment to put the rest of the coals out.


About ten minutes after I extinguished all the coals is when I started to hear the sirens. I thought it must have something to do with the flooding that has been going on in our area (lots of rain lately). The sirens got louder and louder and seemed to be coming from every direction. It didn't occur to me that they might all be coming to my house until a neighbor came over and told me that, because she didn't know me and had not been formally introduced, she decided to call three different local fire stations and two police departments when she heard there was a fire on my balcony. I told her that next time she should just ring my doorbell and I was glad she could now call them back and tell them it was a false-alarm. Unfortunately, she informed me, in Japan once an emergency number is called, an "all clear" is not possible until the situation is "totally analyzed."


The first fire department arrived in full gear, masks, wielding axes, at exactly the same time as the head of the social-studies department (my boss), her husband, and the middle school principle and his wife. They were pushed aside by the second wave of firemen as I tried to explain what was happening. Sometime between the second and third waves of firemen, the police showed up. I am not sure how I was keen enough to think it through, but by that point I had gotten rid of all the evidence of a BBQ, including the coals and lighter fluid. In Japan, if the false-alarm is deemed your fault, you often have to pay for the gas money and other "I'm Sorry" money so I wanted to be sure and avoid that. I stashed the wet coals in my suitcase under my pinstriped suit. I was sticking with my hamburger story. After an hour of interrogation about the hamburger (size, type of meat, sauce...honestly they asked me) the firemen and the cops finally left.....only to be replaced by a troop of detectives. These guys had a huge spotlight, a video camera and a bag for what I assumed was evidence. Oh and the owner of my building and the realtor who rented my apartment to me showed up at this point as well.


Meanwhile, two floors down, my colleagues and friends were having a hell of a laugh at my expense I'm sure. After a fire-safety lesson from the fire chief of my neighborhood (he came last of all and checked my nose hairs to see if I had suffered from smoke-inhalation.....don't ask), a formal apology from me to my landlord, and a rearrangement of my kitchen to make it "less flammable," (1.5 hours total) I was able to join the party downstairs and have some fun. I am still waiting for my principal to call me up and ask me about the whole fiasco, as the detectives and the fire units demanded my employer's number so that they could verify my information. Needless to say I won't be barbecuing again in this country any time soon. That is... not unless I want to hear the shrill cries of the obasans (old ladies) screaming "KAJIIIIII!" again!
The first arrival...

First wave of firemen

Secret cameras are hard to operate....

The "Inspectors..."

Two floors down...

Thursday, August 28, 2008

My Classes

My classes have been wonderful so far. We are learning about the Renaissance this week. I have already been surprised by both the diversity of the students (30 countries or so represented) and their extreme enthusiasm. I mean, just look at how excited they get during my simple renaissance lesson!

I am used to teaching jaded 12th-graders so it is a breath of fresh air to have 9th-grade students who are excited about life. It is also cool to have students who are as unashamed of being a dork as I am! I tell them stories about playing my nerdy roll-playing games when I was a student at St. Mary's and they love it. I love my job!

Sunday, August 24, 2008

Azabu Juban Matsuri

Had a great time at the Azabu Juban Summer Festival (Matsuri). There were so many delicious things to eat that you can only find at festivals, so I went a bit overboard. There were also many activities as well. It is like Japan's version of the state fair, where elephant ears and ring toss only come once a year....except the food is better and the games aren't rigged. Aparently, the theme this year was oni (Japanese devil). This year it was raining, but that didn't stop the vendors or the revellers....
You may want to cover your keyboard with saliva-proof plastic before viewing these octopus ball morsels:
Salty Little Devils!

Best part of a festival is always the drumming

For the trip home, I took the route that my bros. and I used to take to school.
You no longer need to use paper tickets (although they are available). There is a new pass that you refill with money. You can buy drinks with it too!

Saturday, August 23, 2008

Hen na Gomi: Episode #3

I have moved in to my new apartment and it is a nice little spot. It is only a ten minute walk from school. Yesterday I left my building to go hang out with friends and right there, standing in front of me in front of my building, was some of the best gomi I have seen in a while. A relatively new love seat! I quickly took the garbage stickers off it and tucked it in to my new house. I played guitar on it all morning. Pretty comfy! School has started too. I have four classes of about twenty 9th grade boys every day and one class of 22 journalism students of all ages every other day. My students are great and we have already had some fun times. I am being as stern as possible for this first week or so. Here is a tour of my house:

Tonight I am meeting some of my fellow students from the St. Mary's class of '98. We are going to the Azabu Juban summer matsuri (festival). It is in my old neighborhood and the summer festival-- with all its smokey stalls, manic parading, and partying Japanese locals-- is my first memory of Japan from when we first came here back in 1992, so this will be a special night.